Setting for precious stones



Sept. 12, 1939. f L HIRSCH 2,172,613

SETTING FOR PRECIOUS STONES Filed Nov. lO, 1938 29 lNvENToR l 5/S//fascw Patented Sept. 12, 1939 UNITED STATES PATENTr OFFICE 14claims.

The invention relates to settings for precious stones and particularlyto settings for diamonds. It has especial application to rings, althoughit is useful in the construction of other articles of 5 jewelry as well.It will be described with more particular referencey to wedding ringsand similar rings in which'a number of diamonds or other stones are setin a row or series.

In the art of diamond setting, much attention has been given toachieving maximum brilliancy of the gem. Best results are usuallyobtained by designing the setting so that llight will be admittedunderneath the sides of the diamond. This has been accomplished with thewell known prong D settings in which the stone is supported in asomewhat elevated position by means of spaced prongs rising from thesurface of the ring or other article of jewelry. Considerable attentionhas been given as well to the designing of settings with view toachieving an appearance of size, it being desirable that the diamond bemade to look as large as possible. For this purpose, the so-called flattop settings have been quite generally used. The diamond, with such asetting, appears against a more or less solid back-ground of whitemetal, or other suitably colored metal, the outline of the groundsubstantially conforming with the general contour of the stone so thatto a certain extent the stone appears to assume the size of thebackground which is larger than the stone itself. The illusion is ratherimperfect however, and this type of mounting generally detracts from thebrilliancy of the stone.

It is an object of my invention to provide a 3.5 setting which combinesthe principal advantages of the two types of settings I have described,while avoiding the artiiiciality of the ordinary flat top setting, so asto obtain a brilliancy partaken of by both the stone and its setting insuch a Way as to create an impression of greater size which can bedispelled only upon a very minute inspection and study.

A further object is to provide a setting which permits the framing oithe stones with a considil erable amount of metal Without detractingunduly from the eifect of the diamond and with retention of maximumbrilliancy.

Another object is to provide an improved setting which is simple andinexpensive to construct, and yet which gives more eifectiveness to thestones.

A particular object of the invention is to provide a setting whichmagnies the size of a series of small stones more effectively thansettings previously known to the artT a detail elevational View taken asindicated at 4 4 of Fig. 1.

Figs. 5, 6, l and 8 areplan views illustrating a number of otherembodiments of the setting as they appear before the stones have beenset and the mill-graining performed. The settings shown in these viewsrepresent metal inserts suitable for application to a wedding ring suchas shown in part in Figs. 1 to 4.

In accordance with my invention the stones are set in or slightly abovea metal background, or frame, the general contour of which conforms orsubstantially conforms in shape to the general contour of the stones asviewed from above, yet which is Vs'o constructed as to admit the properamount o light at the lower sides of the stones. The arrangement is suchthat the mounting partakes of something of the brilliancy of the stones,creating an unusually effective impression that the stones are largerthan they are shown to be by measurement or by closer scrutiny. rThegeometrical conguration oi the setting together with the manner ofadmitting the light apparently cooperate in some peculiar manner toproduce this impression in which the brilliancy of the stone to acertain extent seems to project itself to the edges of its metal frame.In the case of a round diamond this effect can be achieved for examplewith a round setting or frame, or with a setting substantiallyconforming to tne contour of the gem such as a hexagonal setting of theparticular form t'o be described. It cannot be achieved in anysubstantial degree with a square setting, or with settings of othercontours that do not also possess the features which Will now be setforth with reference to the particular embodiments shown in the drawing.

Referring first to the embodiment illustrated in Figs. l to 4 inclusive,I have shown my invention as applied to a setting for a diamond weddingring, in which a plurality of small diamonds are employed. The ring IGis provided with a suitable recess il in its outer periphery to receivea metal insert or overlay i2 into which the diamonds I3 are set. Theinsert i2 preferably ,is formed of a metal whose colorblends with thatof the stone. In a diamond setting as shown, this insert should be madeof one of the so-called white metals, such as white gold or platinum. Itwill be understood that if the ring IB itself is made of such a whitemetal, it is not necessary to employ a separate insert and the diamondscan be mounted directly in the ring. I consider it preferable, however,to employ the separate insert.

The diamonds I3 are cut in the usual manner. The diamonds shown are ofthe form known in the art as round diamonds as distinguished, forexample, from square or oblong diamonds.

Fig. 5 shows the form of the insert or overlay I2 before the setting hasbeen made. It may be constructed by known metal-working operations so asto provide a plurality of adjoining Octagonal portions I 4. The upperface of the member I2 is substantially flat in the transverse directionand is of arcuate form longitudinally, conforming in general to theshape of the ring to which it is to be applied. The member I2 isprovided with a series of apertures I5 located substantially at thecenters of the contiguous octagonal segments I4. The upper face of themember is provided with a longitudinal groove I6 intersecting theapertures I5, and with transverse grooves I'I intersecting thelongitudinal groove at substantially right angles and at substantiallythe centers of the apertures I5.

The body of the ring I is provided with apertures I8 which are arrangedin alignment with the apertures in the insert. The apertures I and I8'may be formed separately in the two members or may be formed as a singleoperation after the ring and insert have been assembled. Assuming thatthe insert II is in place in the ring IB, but is still in the form shownin Fig. 5. the setting of the diamonds will now be described. First,however, it may be observed that the longitudinal groove I6 of theinsert is preferably projected through the ends of the recess II, as atI8, so as to blend into the surface of the ring. The diamonds I3 are nowset in accordance with the usual practice, the apertures I5 being cut bythe setter to receive the diamonds, and the metal of the face of theinsert I2 being peened or beaded over the edges of the diamonds in thedesired manner. The working of the metal of the face of the insert isperformed in such a manner as to leave projecting flanges or raisedportions I9 (Fig. 4) around the periphery of the octagonal segments I4.As will be seen from Fig. l, these raised portions eX- tend between theends of the grooves II and the sides of the groove I6. The flanges orraised portions I9 finally are millegrained in any suitable manner knownto the art of diamond setting so as to form what might be described as abeaded or serrated edge 2|J.

It will be observed that the diamonds I3 have a round girdle andoctagonal table so that the edges of the metallic member I2 may be saidto substantially conform in shape or conguration to the contour of thestones. The upper face of the member thus provides a frame for thestones, but the grooves I6 and I1 project through the edges of theframe, intersecting at substantially right angles at substantially thecenter of the stones. In the construction I have illustrated, thegrooves do not destroy the symmetry of the frame yet they admitsuflicient light at the lower sides of the stones to give the desiredbrilliancy. The arrangement is such that the brilliancy of the stonesappears to be imparted to the metallic frame in such a Way as to createthe impression that the stones are more nearly of the same size as theirframes.

In Figs. 6, 7 and 8 I have illustrated modified forms of inserts. In theembodiment of Fig. 6 the longitudinal groove 2I corresponds to thegroove I6 of the insert shown in Fig. 5, and the transverse grooves 22to the grooves I'I of that insert. The grooves 2| and 22 intersect atthe centers of the apertures 24. In this embodiment, however, the sidesof the insert are beveled at 23 adjacent the ends of the transversegrooves 22. It will be observed that in this form the apertures 24 arespaced somewhat closer together than is the case with the embodimentpreviously described, so that the center-to-center distance of theapertures is somewhat less than the transverse dimension of the insert,i. e., than the width of the insert. This brings the stones closertogether so that there is somewhat less metal between them and thereforegreater mass brilliance.

The insert shown in Fig. 7 is constructed to provide intersectingcircular segments 25, the apertures 26 being so spaced that the pointsof intersection of the segments fall a substantial distance away fromthe longitudinal center line of the insert. The face of the insert isprovided with intersecting, transverse grooves 2l and 28 in a mannersimilar to that which has been described with reference to the otherembodiments.

A still further embodiment is illustrated in Fig. 8, in which the insertis provided not only with longitudinal and transverse grooves 29 and 30,respectively, intersecting at substantially the center of the apertures3|, but also with transverse grooves 32 located approximately midwaybetween the centers of the apertures. The grooves 32 preferably aredeeper than the grooves 30 and their ends are beveled downwardly towardthe outside as at 33. The longitudinal, upper edges of the insert arebeveled, as at 34, being intersected by the ends of the grooves 30 andby the beveled portions 33 of the grooves 32. The effect of theconstruction when employed as a setting for a series of small diamondsis to create an impression of increased size of the gems while givingimproved brilliancy to the ensemble. Considering each unit of thesetting, it will be observed that the setting is greater in dimensiontransversely of the insert than longitudinally thereof orcircumferentially of the ring.

While I have Adescribed my invention primarily as applied to multiplesettings, it will be understood that it is applicable also to thesetting of single stones. This is true, for example, of the form ofsetting illustrated particularly in Figs. 1 to 4. The multiple settingscan be used for the small side stones of a mounting. The multiplesettings also can be modified to bring the stones even closer togetherso that the adjacent edges come together or approach this condition, itbeing essential in every case, however, that the contour of the metallicframe simulates the contour of the diamonds and that the grooves beprovided in the manner I have described so as to intersect substantiallythe centers of the diamonds. When the multiple settings are so modifiedas to bring the stones close enough together that the adjacent edgescome together or approach this condition, it may be desired to omit thelongitudinal groove, and this can be done while retaining certainimportant advantages of my invention. Again it may be desired to havethe longitudinal groove at only the ends of the series of stones,inasmuch as a longitudinal groove between the stones would largely beobscured by the stones. It Will also be understood that other forms andcontours may be employed for the inserts. For example, the-y might be ofgenerally hexagonal form instead of the octagonal form shown in Fig. 5.The invention is not limited with respect to the number of stonesemployed in the series settings. For example, five or more stones may beemployed. Other possible modifications Will suggest themselves to thoseskilled in the art to which this invention pertains and I do not wish tobe limited tothe specie forms illustrated. The terms and expressionswhich I have employed are used as terms of description and not oflimitation.

I claim:

1. A setting for precious stones comprising a metallic member of a colorblending with the stone, said member presenting an upper face having acontour substantially conforming in shape to the contour of the stone,means for retaining the stone in position to be framed by said upperface, and a plurality of grooves in said face intersecting atsubstantially right angles at substantially the center of the stone,sai-d grooves admitting light so as to enhance the blending of the stonewith the setting.

2. A setting for precious stones comprising a metallic member of a colorblending with the stone, said member presenting an upper face having acontour substantially conforming in shape to the contour of the stone,means for retaining the stone in position to be framed by said upperface, and a pair of grooves in said face, one of said grooves extendingtransversely of the setting and the other longitudinally thereof, saidgrooves admitting light so that the brilliancy of the stone is projectedto the frame formed by said upper face.

3. A setting for a plurality of precious stones comprising a metallicmember of a color blending with the stones, said member presenting anupper face having contours substantially conforming in shape to thecontours of the stones, means for retaining the stones in position to beframed by said upper face, a longitudinal groove intersectingsubstantially the centers of the positions of the stones, and transversegrooves intersecting substantially said centers, said grooves admittinglight so as to enhancethe blending of the stones With the setting.

4. A setting for round diamonds comprising a metallic member of a colorblending With the diamond, said member presenting an upper face havingan octagonal contour, means for retaining the diamond in position to beframed by said upper face, and a plurality of grooves in said faceintersecting at substantially right angles at substantially the centerof said contour.

5. A setting for round diamonds comprising a metallic member of a colorblending with the diamond, said member presenting an upper face havingan octagonal contour, means for retaining the diamond in position to beframed by said upper face, and a pair of grooves in said face, one ofsaid grooves extending transversely of the setting and the otherlongitudinall thereof.

6. A setting for a plurality of round diamonds comprising a metallicmember of a color blending with the diamonds, said member presenting anupper face having a contour conforming to a series of octagons placed ina row, means for retaining the diamonds in position to be framed by saidupper face, a longitudinal groove intersecting substantially the centersof the octagons, and transverse grooves intersecting substantially saidcenters.

7. A setting for round diamonds comprising a metallic member of a 'colorblending With the diamond, said member presenting an upper face ofsubstantially circular shape, means for retaining the diamond inposition to be framed by said upper face, and a plurality of grooves insaid face intersecting at substantially right angles at substantiallythe center of said contour.

8. A setting for a plurality of round diamonds comprising a metallicmember of a color blending with the diamonds, said member presenting anupper face having a contour conforming to a series of circles, means forretaining the stones in position to be framed by said upper face, alongitudinal groove intersecting substantially the centers of thecircles and transverse grooves intersecting substantially said centers.

9. A setting for a plurality of round diamonds comprising a metallicmember of a color blending with the diamonds, said member presenting anupper face having a contour conforming to a series of intersectingcircles,`means for retaining the stones in position to be framed by saidupper face, a longitudinal groove intersecting substantially the centersof the circles and transverse grooves intersecting substantially saidcenters.

10. A setting for a plurality of precious stones comprising a metallicmember of a Acolor blending With the stones, said member presenting anupper face having contours conforming substantially in shape to thecontours of the stones, means for retaining the stones in position to beframed by said upper face, a longitudinal groove intersectingsubstantially the centers of the positions of the stones, and transversegrooves intersecting substantially said centers, said centers beingspaced apart by a distance which is less than the transverse Width ofsaid upper face.

11. A setting for a plurality of precious stones comprising a metallicmember presenting an upper face having contours substantially conformingin shape to the contours of the stones, means for retaining the stonesin position to be vframed by said upper face, a longitudinal groove 'Fintersecting substantially the centers of the positions of the stones,and transverse grooves intersecting substantially said centers, theframing portions of said upper face which forms the setting for each ofthe plurality of stones being of greater dimensions transversely of thesetting than longitudinally thereof.

12. A diamond-set ring comprising a setting portion presenting an upperface having contours substantially conforming in shape to the contoursof the diamonds, means for retaining the diamonds in position to beframed by said upper face, a longitudinal groove intersectingsubstantially the axis of the diamonds and transverse groovesintersecting substantially said axis.

13. A diamond-set ring comprising a setting portion presenting an upperface having contours substantially conforming in shape to the contoursof the diamonds, means for retaining the diamonds in position to beframed b-y said upper face, a longitudinal groove intersectingsubstantially the axis of the diamonds and transverse groovesintersecting substantially said axis, said upper face being of greaterdimension transversely of the ring than the circumferential distancebetween the axis of the diamonds in the plane of said upper face 14. Asetting for a plurality of precious stones comprising a metallic memberof a color blending with the stones, said member presenting an upperface having contours substantially conforming in shape to the contoursof the stones, means for retaining the stones in position to be framedby said upper face, and transverse grooves intersecting substantiallythe centers of the positions of the stones.

LEE HIRSCH

